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Lying down and vomiting between courses: This is how Ancient Romans would feast
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Imagine, if you will, the most glorious festive feast, with an oversize turkey, stuffing two ways, holiday ham, the requisite fixings and at least half a dozen pies and cakes. That may all sound grand — that is, until you consider the extravagant displays of the ancient Roman banquet.
Members of the Roman upper classes regularly indulged in lavish, hours-long feasts that served to broadcast their wealth and status in ways that eclipse our notions of a resplendent meal. “Eating was the supreme act of civilization and celebration of life,” said Alberto Jori, professor of ancient philosophy at the University of Ferrara in Italy.
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Ancient Romans enjoyed sweet and salty concoctions. Lagane, a rustic short pasta usually served with chickpeas, was also used to make a honey cake with fresh ricotta cheese. The Romans used garum, a pungent, salty fermented fish sauce for umami flavor in all dishes, even as a dessert topping. (For context, garum has a similar flavor profile and composition to current-day Asian fish sauces such as Vietnam’s nuoc mam and Thailand’s nam pla.) The prized condiment was made by leaving fish meat, blood and guts to ferment inside containers under the Mediterranean sun.
Game meat such as venison, wild boar, rabbit and pheasant along with seafood like raw oysters, shellfish and lobster were just some of the pricey foods that made regular appearances at the Roman banquet.
What’s more, hosts played a game of one-upmanship by serving over-the-top, exotic dishes like parrot tongue stew and stuffed dormouse. “Dormouse was a delicacy that farmers fattened up for months inside pots and then sold at markets,” Jori said. “While huge quantities of parrots were killed to have enough tongues to make fricassee.”
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Giorgio Franchetti, a food historian and scholar of ancient Roman history, recovered lost recipes from these repasts, which he shares in “Dining With the Ancient Romans,” written with “archaeo-cook” Cristina Conte. Together, the duo organize dining experiences at archaeological sites in Italy that give guests a taste of what eating like a Roman noble was all about. These cultural tours also delve into the eyebrow-raising rituals that accompanied these meals.
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When Englishman Francis Chadwick decided to spend Christmas in Las Vegas, his goal was simply to escape everything.
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So while his family and friends were spending evenings enjoying festive drinks, decorating Christmas trees and watching “Love Actually,” Francis packed his bag, leaving his Christmas sweater behind, and headed to the United States.
“I was in Washington, D.C., for a couple of days. I went to Dallas for a few days, watched the Cowboys down there, and then on to Vegas over the Christmas period,” recalls Francis. “And my mindset at the time — I had no interest in women, relationships, anything at — I hadn’t even contemplated a relationship since the separation from my first wife.”
On Christmas Eve 2014, Francis was playing three-card poker at Vegas’ MGM Grand Hotel and Casino, a sweeping, vast gambling palace on the Vegas Strip.
He was pretty absorbed in the game when a woman sat down next to Francis, and he looked up.
The woman smiled widely, introducing herself as Tehzin from Toronto. Then, Tehzin introduced Francis to what seemed like her entire family, who all appeared to be in tow. Subsequently, Tehzin’s sister and brother-in-law sat down at the poker table next to her.
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Francis didn’t know what to think. All he knew was he was drawn to Tehzin. Slowly, surprising himself, he smiled back. It felt like the first time he’d smiled properly in months.
Francis didn’t — at that point — know the significance of this moment.
“You’ve got me traveling to Vegas from the UK, Tehzin traveling there from Canada… What are the chances that we would actually cross paths at all, let alone everything else that happened next? It’s pretty crazy,” says Francis today.
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